Dèryè Mòn Gen Mòn

Tuesday, March 21, 2000

Helen Hession picked me up and then Steve and Margo Klinker at 3:30 am. All 10 of us (Jane was to meet us at the airport) met at St. Mary and had a 4 am Mass in the chapel before leaving for Indianapolis. We had four parishioners who weren't going show up for Mass (Helen, Jim Bayley, Tim Bobillo, Mr. Sullivan)! Besides our own gear, we were taking 13 suitcases to Haiti, including a nice brass-marble cross (donated by the Mr. and Mrs. Dan Koches), medical supplies, clothing, hats, 500 rosaries and assorted school supplies and toiletries.
Our US Air flight left Indy at 7:40 am and landed in Charlotte, NC, at 9:10. We only had 20 minutes to make the connecting flight to Miami, so we had to hurry. That flight left at 9:35 and landed in Miami at 11:15. A good portion of the flight followed the Atlantic Ocean coastline and was gorgeous. It was 80 degrees when we landed. We had a good meal at the Top of the Port Restaurant since we had a scheduled three-hour layover (that turned out to be closer to five hours.). We enjoyed a few moments around the pool on the 8th floor and actually taught Adel how to play euchre. (And such phrases as "Way to go partner!")
Finally we lifted off for Port-au-Prince at 4:38 pm. I sat next to a Canadian born man named Richard Neufeld. He has lived in Port-au-Prince for 16 years (and works in communications.) He talked a lot about religion and political struggles in Haiti. The flight over the Bahamas and approach to Haiti was beautiful (yet sad as you could see the land was barren of many trees) as was the sunset as we landed.
At last we touched down in Port-au-Prince at 6:15 pm and our adventure began. Father Ronel and Father Calixte met us at the airport before customs and helped us through that ordeal (especially Ft. Calixte with all of the medicines we brought.) Father Ronel had his Pacers t-shirt on and remembered me from meeting me at the Gus Macker in Lafayette in August 1999.
The gantlet of people awaiting us as we exited customs and carried our numerous bags to our vehicles was scary . . . each wanting to "help" with our bags and/or beg. It was something I'd never seen before and hope to never again. (One gentleman said he had 6 kids and was hungry.)
Two vans - one with all the bags and one with the 11 of us - drove over bumpy dirt/concrete roads through many shanties, street side "food stands" and much traffic. One little boy even jumped on the back of our van and hung on for a while. We even passed 3 gas stations en route to Hospice St. Joseph (I'm not sure why that struck me as so odd.) The road often wasn't two car widths wide and seemingly had up to five vehicles abreast each jockeying for position. Tim and Craig said it reminded them of the movie Mad Max.
Sister Margaret met us at Hospice St. Joseph. As was fairly normal for Haiti, there was no electricity (which also meant no showers or telephone as well). Each of the married couples had a room, while Tim, Craig, Brian and I shared one room. Each room had a toilet and shower that would work if there happened to be water. Jane and Karen also shared a room, as did Father Bob and Fritzner (his sponsor child). Fritzner showed up to see Father Bob and spend the day with him in Port-au-Prince. We instantly all fell in love with him and invited him to spend the week with us (since he was on a break from school.) Brian gave him a combination solar-powered, wind-up radio that he loved to play. Fritzner was very helpful as an additional interpreter for our group all week.
Once everything was unloaded, we got candles and tasted our first Haiti brewed Prestige Beer. Not bad at all!! We sat on the third floor terrace and scanned a beautiful night view of Port-au-Prince from our hillside overlook and enjoyed a wonderful Caribbean breeze. While there was no electricity in our section of town a soccer field a few miles away was clearly lit up! Nojou, a resident at the Hospice, played his guitar and his 10th anniversary song for some of us.
Before we went to bed, Karen said she had a story she wanted to tell me but didn't know if she should. On her first visit to Haiti with Father Bob in January 1996, she got a message while in the village outside Port-au-Prince to return an emergency phone call. Once she got back to a phone, she found out her daughter was distressed over the death of one of her friends from school . . . my son Justin . . . and needed her consultation. Now here she is on another Haitian trip with me. What an impact to think that the news would travel as far as rural Haiti. Father Bob later said he remembered this story as well, but that he didn't know Sharon or I back then.
As we all turned in, we were quite aware of the many night noises . . . a rah-rah band, roosters (that crowed at all hours of the night), dogs, snoring, a few mosquitoes buzzing about and even some gun shots.

Wednesday, March 22, 2000

Day Two began with some misguided roosters crowing at 3 am! Add in the numerous barking dogs and an occasional lone gunshot and a pesky mosquito and I didn't have my best night of sleeping. Everyone in our room was up before sunrise . . . enjoying the early morning sounds such as the many children (all neatly dressed in their school uniforms) descending the hill to school, the occasional car passing by and the many street vendors carrying their wares to be sold.
The hospice had many Haitian crafts for sale including some wonderful wood carvings from a local sculptor named Mouis Cesar.
Morning prayer in the chapel was at 7:30 am with breakfast on the second floor at 8 am. We had French toast, homemade maple syrup (made with brown sugar), grapefruit (not nearly as tart as we're used to back home), orange slices, bread, Haitian apricot jelly and natural peanut butter.
Fan Fan, our driver, braved many two-laned, highly pedestrianed, trash-filled, pot-holed, crooked roads to tour us through Port-au-Prince. When I say two-laned, you use whichever lane is open to travel on even if it is the opposite one. Also there is never any stretch of the road where it is improper to pass another car and we never saw the first stop sign or traffic light anywhere. Craig termed it Traffic Anarchy!
We started our tour at the Visitation House where Ron Voss showed us the beautiful grounds and a colorful mural depicting 14 key points in the history of Haiti (including the recent years involving Aristide etc.) The mural depicts a Haitian "Stations of the Cross". He gave a 45-minute talk on the vivid-recent and often brutal background of present day Haiti (for more on the this history of Haiti see that chapter in this article.)
A Haitian proverb that he quoted was "A person sees from where he stands." Another was "Derye Mon Gen Mon," or "Beyond the mountain is a mountain."
Several of us bought some beautiful hand-carved religious items (such as my nine-piece Nativity scene and the Yaacoub's Last Supper wall hanging.)
Next came the eye-opener of the day - a visit to Mother Teresa's Sisters of Charity Children's Clinic. We were barely inside the door and we were greeted by smiles and outstretched arms of the Haitian children (who were well enough and old enough to walk). They were clearly starved for human contact. There were nearly 30 (mostly 7 years old and under) in the front room. Mulan - a quiet, yet extremely eager to be held boy was my first to be picked up (and he was heavy). He readily laid his head on my shoulder (he had a thyroid problem . . . a big knot on his throat). I remember Adel holding him later. Many of us had candy to hand out, which quickly drew a crowd of others. Next Pierre, a 9-year-old grabbed my hand and took me to the back room where probably 60 or more children were (often two to a crib). Pierre seemed to know the name of most of the children.
For most of the time there, Brian held a little boy named Jeff. I didn't think Brian would ever put him down.
Many in our group held the littlest children and even helped to feed them. It was so amazing that they would stop crying as soon as they were picked up. As we left, the children that could, followed us to the gate and called out our names.
From there we drove through town and stopped at the St. Jean Bosco Church, which was burned and the site of a massacre on Sept. 11, 1988, in an attempt to kill Aristide. It has not been repaired and is left as a memorial/shrine to that event. Next we drove past where Fort Dimache once stood (it was an awful prison and the site of much torture and death. Aristide tried to make it a museum to remember the brutality to the people. However, it was again used as a prison for a while before the people finally tore it down totally. Now some poor housing is on that location.). City Solei was next. It is the poorest section of the poorest country on the earth. Literally built on a trash dump. It is hard to believe that humans can (or would) live there.
Next we drove by the Catholic cathedral (but couldn't get in) and then to the Espiscopal cathedral. It had many gorgeous Haitian mural of religious history (all of whom are portrayed as black). It also had a gift shop on the opposite side of the school courtyard filled with neatly- dressed (green and white uniforms), happy children. Our tour next drove by the Haitian White House and Sacred Heart Church (another scene of fairly recent violence.)
Finally we stopped at St. Joseph Hospital and met Father Calixte again (and several of his staff). We just missed Mass in his outdoor chapel. Several Haitians were still sitting in the chapel, praying or saying the rosary. It struck me that if they can have faith and hope in these conditions, then we should never have any excuses.
This building used to be Father Calixte's family's home. Since they now live in America, he has turned it into a hospital. He showed us the entire building. It had room for 40 beds, 2 operating rooms and 1 emergency room. They average 25 visits to the clinic per day as well as 2-3 surgeries and 2-3 emergency room visits per day. He is expanding the facility upward. From the roof, the view of the mountains northward was spectacular, as was the view southward toward the statute of Jesus atop the Sacred Heart Church looking outward toward the Port-au-Prince Bay.
Father Calixte treated us all to Sejourne cola (it tasted a little like bubble gum but looked yellow in color) and a sandwich and some Culligan ice.
Finally we returned to the Hospice St. Joseph shortly before 4 pm. Most of us were happy to get our first (and maybe last) shower - albeit a cold one. Brian, Adel and I pitched in a bought a hand-carved wooden box from a street vendor across from the Hospice. We thought it'd make a good prayer box or Haiti collection box for St. Mary. Craig wandered down the street and played some 2-on-2 basketball. He also taught them the meaning of "Air ball". Karen, Adel, Lulu, Jane and I played "Oh, Oh, Ske Wat-an-ton-i" game with some children behind the Hospice. Brian began giving out a seemingly endless supply of suckers to the children he'd meet.
Dinner at 7 pm coincided with a beautiful sunset over Port-au-Prince Bay. We ate Haitian Soup Joumon (a hearty cabbage-potato soup the slave owners ate in early Haitian history. Once slaves successfully gained independence on Jan. 1, 1804, this meal became their symbol of independence and equality.) We also had slaw, beets, salad, rice and water.
Father Bob said Mass at 7:30 in the Hospice chapel. Afterward, several of us were able to call home. I did get to talk to Sharon and Kyle (he leaves for Spain tomorrow) and tell them we all arrived safely.
Craig spent a lot of time walking the lower terrace of the Hospice (by an empty pool), as this was where smoking was allowed.
The day ended on the terrace playing euchre - Steve and I came from behind to beat Adel and Tim (the highlight of the game was Jeff's successful loaner with only two trump!) I think Jane should have been coaching Tim instead of Adel!!!

Thursday, March 23, 2000

Day 3 will be very difficult to describe in words. We were woke up at 4:45 am by Steve singing "Give God the Glory." Of course he thought is was 5:30. We had breakfast at 6:30, consisting of corn flakes, powdered milk, grapefruit, orange slices, homemade bread, apricot jelly and peanut butter. Afterwards we loaded up our three vehicles (24 suitcases plus our backpacks etc.) Father Ronel arrived along with Sister Jackie Picard and Molly Brady. All three (along with Fritzner) would be our interpreters for the rest of the trip. Instantly we all felt like we had know each of them all of our lives.
Father Ronel is 42 years old and has been a priest since 1982. He spent some time in France during his education. Sister Jackie is 52 years old (five feet tall!), is a nurse as well, and has been in Haiti for three years. Prior to Haiti she worked in Washington, D.C. in an Aids Hospital. Molly, who is from Indianapolis, is 25 years old and is in Haiti on a one-year mission (which will be up in August). She is contemplating becoming a nun but has yet to make up her mind. We should pray daily for the work these three do.
Tidon and Chavannes were our other two drivers along with Father Ronel (or as he is called "Sha Sha".) Our trip began as we wound through a crowded, early-morning Port-au-Prince. One "street" was actually nothing more than a dry-up creek bed. We stopped for fuel at an Elf Boutique (a French company). Diesel fuel was 4.50 Haitian (or $1.20 US). The 91-octane gas sold for 6.60 Haitian and the 95 octane was 7.40 Haitian.
Sha Sha took us on a short cut through City Solei - the poorest section of the city (in the poorest country of the Americas) - as we headed toward National Highway #1. As we began leaving the city behind us, more agriculture and mountains loomed ahead of us. There actually were some cattle, sheep and goat grazing on not very good pastures. We also saw coconut and banana trees as well. The drive along the Caribbean coast lasted over an hour and included one stop (near a lime-mining operation) to put our feet in the water and take some pictures.
As the road made its way through each little town or village there were speed bumps in the road (there never were any stop signs!). Sha Sha called them "police cushette" which translates to sleeping police. Not only did they help slow traffic in highly pedestrian areas, they then became prime locations for street vendors to set up (as they often solicited the vehicles and tap-taps as they slowed to cross the bumps.
Tap-taps are Haiti's version of buses or cabs. They can range in size from that of a bus all the way down to a Toyota pick-up truck. Usually there is only standing room only and there is often many goods and wares in addition to people. We saw as many as 25 people standing in the back of a Toyota pick-up truck as it traveled the bumpy roads!
Sha Sha drove the car that Father Bob, Craig and I were riding in. After a brief stop in one town, we witnessed our very first Haitian coop - Sister Jackie took over the driving (putting Sha Sha in another vehicle altogether) stating that "Sha Sha is too cautious and we'll never get there!" I knew right away that all she'd need to operate the car was the horn and accelerator (and not the brake). The drive north included a detour in St. Mark to avoid a section of the road evidencing recent burning of tires (which is a Haitian form of protest . . . and sometimes worse.) At 10:30 the paved portion of the highway ended and our bumpy, pot-holed drive of a lifetime began as we moved further inland and away from the coast.
At Gonaive, we saw the cathedral for the diocese (that Pendus is part of). In front of it was a statute recalling the "Rising of the People" in the revolution of 1804. We also made a half-hour stop at the home of Bishop Emmanuel Constant (in part to allow Tidon to get a tire fixed that had to be changed along the way so far.)
Sha Sha and one other priest are responsible for two churches and 25 chapels within this diocese. One church is in Gro-Morne (pronounced Gro-Mon) called Our Lady of the Light. This is where he lived most of the time. It also has 20 chapels in the out-lying areas. The second church is St. Joseph's in Pendus (which is our destination). It has five chapels in its out-lying area.
By 1:45 pm we arrived at Gro-Morne and visited Sister Jackie's house (Molly also lives here too). We were served freshly squeezed grapefruit juice - it was very sweet and tasty. We also got to see the Our Lady of the Light Church (but didn't get inside), saw the old one-roomed school currently being used, as well as the new 12-room school called "John 23" that is just about completed (the 12 rooms include 10 classrooms, an office and a bathroom for teachers only!) While walking the new school grounds, several curious children watched us. I didn't have anything for them but my can of Pringles in my backpack. At first they were apprehensive and shy. But once they tried them, I had a swarm of children eager to try a potato chip. Once I ran out, a round of handshakes turned into a round of "give me five" which in turn became a rousing round of "high fives." I've never had so much fun with a simple can of Pringles!
Back on the road again, we arrived at the Jean Marie Vincent Center in Grepin at 3 pm for an outdoor lunch of fried chicken, pikles, fried bananas, rice and beans and Cokes. We met Amy (another missionary volunteer like Molly) here. One great problem in Haiti is that most of the trees in the country have been cut down. This Center planted 45,000 new trees last November and we saw many more new seedlings being started.
The last leg of the journey to Pendus (pronounced Pandu) included a change of vehicles, so Craig & I sat atop the back of one vehicle while Father Bob, Adel, Karen and Fritzner road atop the second one. The bumpiness intensified (partly because the roads were increasingly getting worse) but the view of the valleys, mountains, riverbeds and vegetation was nothing short of awesome.
About a mile from Pendus (and just after crossed a rugged creek), Tidon's vehicle stalled and he couldn't get it back into gear (it was a stick shift). I got out my leatherneck multi-purpose tool. In less than 10 minutes, Tidon had it fixed and working again. I gave him the tool which he proudly looped onto his belt. I told him I couldn't do a fraction of what he could with that tool. (I later found out he was a mechanic by trade.)
Our arrival at Pendus had an immediate crowd - many introductions and swarms of children. Steve took videos of our welcome. He drew a great crowd of children when he turned to viewing screen around so the kids could see themselves as they were being taped. We taught a standing room only crowd the game of "Oh Oh Ske Wat-an-ton-i". It was an instant hit with the young and old as well as the boys and girls . . . so much so that we didn't get to dinner until 7:10.
Dinner (in the room underneath the rectory) included a wonderful chicken-vegetable soup, fried chicken, fried potatoes, bread, peanut butter, grapefruit jelly (I really liked this), pineapple jelly, cheese, coke and Prestige Beer. What a meal! Our dining room had lights powered by a solar panel on top of the roof.
After dinner, our group entertained another crowd of young and old in as many songs as we could remember the words to . . . including some Christmas carols, the Purdue fight song and the Beverly Hillbillies theme song.
Later there was a rosary service (obviously in Kreyol) in the church, which several of us attended. The Kreyol version was beautiful to listen to.
One of the first phrases of Kreyol I learned was "Koumo ou rele?" meaning "What is your name?" I must have asked one young man five times as I couldn't understand his response. I tried to apologize for repeating myself and he responded with "No Danger!" Sister Jackie promptly said, "No, you mean No Problem!" Needless to say "No Danger" became a hit phrase for the rest of our stay.
The building we stayed in was remodeled (or as many said totally rebuilt) with the money St. Mary sent in 1999. It consisted of one room that could sleep six, two rooms that could sleep four along with a bathroom that had a toilet, shower, and sink. It had a concrete floor and a concrete roof. On top of the building were three 55-galloon drums holding the water that was gravity fed to the bathroom. Water could be carried up from the river to a cistern and then hand-pumped up to the roof containers. Showers that night were quick and cool, but very welcomed after a very dusty day.
Most of us sat up until nearly midnight, talking about a very wonderful and memorable day. Brian, who went to bed first, was snoring so loud even Father Bob could hear him from the courtyard area.
I made the observation to Father Ronel that I had spent the day on the Highway to Heaven - as it was bumpy, had its ups and downs, and detours yet when I had reached my destination, I knew the journey was worth it all.

Friday, March 24, 2000

Day 4 began with an all-night snoring barrage from Brian! We finally got up at 5:30. One little boy named Fagant remembered my name and grinned from ear to ear. Breakfast began at 7:30 and included a ham and egg omelet, watermelon, bananas, plantains, square bread, lemonade and coffee.
Mass at St. Joseph followed at 7:45. Father Ronel and Father Bob celebrated together. Afterward we gave gifts such as rosaries, medals or prayer cards to all who attended (church was almost full . . . remarkable since it was a Friday morning.) We then went to each of the six classrooms of the St. Joseph school and gave each child a hat and either a pencil or toy. The hats are a very popular gift in Haiti.
Afterwards, Adel and Lulu (with Sister Jackie and Fritzner interpreting and Karen helping as well) began seeing some 60 patients at the clinic from 9 am to 5 pm without even a break for lunch! Adel estimated that had all of this work been done in the United States (along with the added sophistication available in the US) that it would have amounted to over $250,000. The most common complaint was general body aches - especially in the older people (usually depression or fatigue). Also many parasitic cases were found among the children as well as skin infections. Adel said several problem could easily be fixed in America (one lady had cataracts and most likely will be blind within 10 years because the 10-minute operation isn't available here; another lady had two locked elbows since birth but will forever go untreated in Haiti; another lady was malnutritioned as her husband had died and she had 9 children to feed.)
Fritzner helped Lulu get patient histories by doing the interpreting for her. Karen would take temperatures, rubbed lotion on patients and helped in the dispensary.
The rest of us took a two-hour hike (9 am to 11 am) up the mountains to Masak to visit a combined school/chapel. We crossed the River of Pendus and wove our way up the mountainside. As we approached (yet still ½ mile away) we could hear the children singing our welcome song, which when translated was:

"Sha Sha's coming, but he's not here yet.
Sha Sha's coming, but he's not here yet.
He forgot to telephone, but he's coming anyway."

The second verse replaced "Sha Sha" with "Our friends." The closer we got to the school, the louder the singing became. Most of us had a difficult time holding back the tears from this glorious reception we received.
The school had 210 children in one thatch-roofed, palm-woven walled structure that was approximately 25-foot wide by 40-foot long. Five classes met here. Each facing a different direction, facing a chalkboard and a different teacher, yet all within the one confined space. Sha Sha said one of his priorities is to build a five-room school building for Masak, but that it would take about $15,000 US to complete it. The costs are high do to the fact that everything would have to be carried that long way up the mountain by either individuals or donkeys.
The children, all dressed in their blue uniforms, sang two other songs for us, the themes of which were "We're happy you come here" and "It's a great thing you are here, we are dancing because you are here." Steve had a hand-held recorder and recorded most of the music.
Our group reciprocated with "Amazing Grace" and "Hail to Purdue". We explained that it was the university that several of us attended.
We then took a coconut break. We watched as one of the teachers skillfully used his machete to notch a hole in the top so we could drink the sweet juice and then cut it open completely to get the sweet coconut meat inside. They also gave us sugar cane as well (I really liked it, although not everyone did.)
Afterward there were several more songs, including the "Candy of Love" dance (there was one verse for each person in our group) by the younger girls and the contra-dance (which included the cutest little boy joining in at the end.)
After school dismissal (most schools in Haiti let out shortly after lunch), we talked with the teachers and principle about their need for a separate school and money for teacher salaries. They would also like to have the ability to serve food. Many of the children walk up to two hours to school, attend all day, and walk up to two hours home before getting anything to eat for the day.
The walk home was a lot easier as it was mostly downhill. Craig was in heaven as an iced cold Prestige was awaiting him upon arrival. We then had a late lunch about 2:15. It included our first taste of Kabret (goat meat), rice and beans, fried potatoes, beets, carrots, tomatoes, bread and bananas.
I played soccer against all the children (using a tennis ball). Afterward, Steve and I introduced baseball (with a stick and the tennis ball) to Pendus. Both of us hit impressive home runs - almost losing the ball in the process. Everyone had a turn to hit, including most of the girls and a few of the mothers. Many obviously had never attempted this before, but all had a great laugh in trying to do so. However, one young man named Ken hit the ball like he'd played before (which he said he had). He also helped us pitch and catch. Ken later said he'd like to be a mechanic (if he could afford the schooling to do so.) Tim later gave him a nice dress shirt. You should have seen the appreciative look on his face when he got such a nice item.
While most of the others visited a local family's house, I stayed behind for about 10 games of "Oh, Oh Ske Wat-on-ton-i" I almost got hoarse as the new rage of Pendus was being played.
Brian bought two and Craig one machete (with Molly's help). The cost for three was $10 US, but Brian insisted on paying $15 (this will lead to another great story later on.)
We ate a lighter supper at 7:30, consisting of bread, bananas, vegetable soup (with leftover goat meat) and labouir (pronounced labwee). It is a sweet-tasting porridge made out of flour, sugar and milk and is served warm. It was very good.
As several of us sat on the patio area, Jean Claude and de Onvil joined us. With Sister Jackie interpreting, we had a good talk. De Onvil 's wife died five months ago and he has seven children and his mother to take care of. He is a farmer, but the lack of rain is a real hardship. Jean Claude is 29 years old, unemployed and unmarried. He said, "I'll probably never be married since I don't have a job." Sister Jackie said that is because the Haitians don't want to get married and have a family if there is no way to support them.
Afterwards, Jean Claude and his nephew Peter watched as Steve, Craig, Molly and I played euchre and a Haitian game called casino (which is similar to a game Aunt Till Klinker had taught us.) I had asked Sister Jackie what someone like Brian would be called when he paid $15 for a $10 item. She said "farouche". I asked Molly to find out from Jean Claude what that meant. After several minutes it was determined it meant to bid up the price (like in an auction.) That wasn't what we had in mind, so we had Molly describe the whole story to Jean Claude and his nephew Peter. When the story was fully retold, Peter said, without any need of interpretation, "Im - Be - Cil." Of course we all had a great laugh (and many more times throughout the stay.)
We finally went to bed at 11:45. It got really cold (under 60 degrees) and all I had was a sheet. By morning you could see your breath!

Saturday, March 25, 2000

I woke up at 5:20 to a chorus of many birds singing. It was extraordinary. Day five was a little slower paced but very spiritually inspiring.
We were having fun telling everyone of the "Imbecil" story. We asked Fritzner if Haitians teased each other like we did and he instantly answered "Oh yea!!"
Breakfast was at 7 am. We had grapefruit, bananas, spaghetti, bread, lemonade and coffee. Afterwards, several women were washing clothes so I had my shorts washed (they were pretty grungy from four days use.)
A wedding for four couples was scheduled for 8 am. One couple came from Masak (he was one of the teachers we met yesterday), a two-hour walk to get there, and another from 90-minutes away. Prior to the start there was a group rosary said in Kreyol. There are many similarities to our weddings - each had their own color schemes, little ring bearers and flower girls, very elegant wedding gowns and suits . . . and what surprised me most of all, the numerous cameras and camcorder recording the ceremony. However, as is expected with "Island time" the service didn't start until 8:30.
The couples were surprised to receive gifts from us (picture frames with a Polaroid picture we took inside, crosses, scarves and lotion.)
One French phrase used in the Mass was "Cheri Jetam" which means "Honey, I love you." I told Adel what it meant afterwards and he immediately ran to tell it to Lulu. She didn't believe him and asked me what it meant. I promptly said "Honey, I' hungry and I want to eat right now." You should have seen the look on Adel's face!
After Mass, Adel, Lulu, Karen, Jackie and Fritzner treated another 35 patients in the clinic for 3-4 more hours.
\ Also after the wedding much celebration began. Kiro (meaning Christ the King), a group of 25-30 older children did a choreographed song and dance march throughout the courtyard and street.
Molly shared a treat that Chavannes had brought called Kasav - a bread made of Mayok root and sugar. She said it always gives her diarrhea but it didn't affect any of us.
Sha Sha took some of us to visit de Onvil's house (just a short walk from the church). His seven children range in age from 5-25 and his wife died five months ago. The childrens' names and ages are Jolinette (25 - she's in high school in Gonaive), Vilsaint (24), Renide (16), Edline (14), Rodler (12 and pronounced Woodly), Rodlin (10) and Peterson (5). They all live in a two-room, thatched-roof hut. Each room has only a double sized bed and a walkway beside the bed (no other furniture as no room for it.) Despite the fact so many lived here, it was very tidy inside. Sha Sha said about $1,500 to $2000 US would build him a house adequate for his family's needs. Onvil made sure to show us a picture of his wife Hermana from her funeral.
While we visited de Onvil, Steve, Margo, Molly, Craig and Jane and many local children took a hike to the top of the hill overlooking Pendus. They said the view was spectacular. They sang songs together on their descent back to the church that could be heard all over.
Lunch was served at 1 pm. We had chicken, rice, beets, carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, fried bananas, potatoes, grapefruit jelly, Coke and Fruit Champaign soft drinks.
Several more games of "Oh Oh" followed in the courtyard. One little girt really learned the words so our game will remain here after we leave.
There was on deaf-mute man that carried a machete. He always seemed to be around, usually making seemingly threatening gestures with his hands and grunting noises. We did not know exactly what to think about him. Then one time he approached us while Sha Sha was with us. Sha Sha said his gestures were telling us someone (Brian, who else!) had given him $3 and he felt strong like a king! Boy did I feel bad.
Sha Sha then wanted to show us more of his chapels. As we prepared to leave, the look of sadness on the children's faces (they thought we were leaving) was gut wrenching. There were 13 of us (all but Brian went) in one vehicle (or as I said only a half-filled tap-tap!)
The road on this journey was deeply rutted, sharply inclined and very difficult to travel upon. Our first stop was in Berard at the Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary. It was built only one year ago (on land donated by the elderly neighbor lady). The mural on the front of the church (with a picture of the Holy Spirit descending) said "Vini Lespri Sen Nan Nou" or "Holy Spirit Come to Us." This chapel would be a 45-minute walk from Pendus.
Next we drove to Savane Carre. It has a school for 320 children - however, only three classes are in the small school . . . four more are held inside the one-roomed church and two more outside under the trees. Sister Jackie showed us the garden for the school. She said they try to teach care for the earth is important even after education.
Nearby was a home that had been destroyed by a hurricane a couple years ago. Mrs. Etienne Dieujuste lives there with her 11 children (two of which were pregnant). Since they have no money to rebuild, they are all living in a hut that is barely 10-foot by 10-foot in size. Sha Sha said $500 could rebuild the house on the old foundation.
Our travel brought to mind the Haitian proverb "Derye Mon Gen Mon" or "Beyond the Mountain is a Mountain." Every part of their existence, including physical travel, is a struggle.
We sang songs as we traveled the countryside. Steve got wound up and sang "If I had a mule, I'd bring it up to Pendus . . . I'd bring up concrete . . ." all to the tune of "If I had a hammer."
As we entered the roughest stretch of the road home, a Haitian walking by greeted us with "Bonswa". Tim promptly said, "Shouldn't he have said Good Luck instead!"
Steve had teased Brian earlier in the week that he'd heard Purdue beat Gonzaga in the NCAA. Brian believed us for a while. We wanted to tell Brian when we got back that Purdue was now in the Final Four. We knew we couldn't convince him without Father Bob's help and he was hesitant to go along. At supper later that night, the story began to unfold. When asked to support our "story", Father Bob simply said, "That's what I heard!" Of course his answer gave us all a good laugh.
We arrived back at Pendus at 6:45. Multitudes of joyous children welcomed us back before we could even get out of the vehicle. What a great feeling!
A quick dinner of bread, soup, chocolate wafers, bananas and porridge was followed by a rosary service in the church and our presentation of the crucifix (donated by the Koches) to St. Joseph. They were very thankful.
Following this, the feast of St. Joseph began. It reminded me of a county fair atmosphere with many food stands, music and dancing. Steve, Brian, Craig, Father Bob, Jane, Tim, Adel and I went for a little while (it was already after dark.) We danced some in the streets to the delight of the onlookers. However, we all felt a little uncomfortable and went back to our place within an hour.
The Haitian music sounded like a bass guitar that blared a series of the same three chords all night long . . . and I do mean ALL NIGHT LONG! Again it was cold at night, but most of us used sweat pants or long johns this night.

Sunday, March 26, 2000

The party noise kept most of us from sleeping much if at all. We got up at 5:45 to a beautiful sunrise over the mountains behind our dwelling. Breakfast was at 7 am. We had ham and eggs, watermelon, potatoes, bread, milk and fig jelly. The Feast of St. Joseph was to be celebrated shortly and many from a long walk away were arriving early. Most of the people were all dressed in their finest clothes (usually a suit and a tie for the men and a nice dress and maybe a hat for the women). The children sang and processed in their uniforms and about 20 were to receive their first communion (including a couple adults.)
I met a young boy (about 10) named Gabi. He had a French bible. I told him my favorite verse was Proverbs 3:5. I had him read it to me in French/Kreyol. I then asked him (with Molly's help) what his favorite verse was. He said it was Acts 1:8, so I read that to him in English. I then marked it in my bible and gave him my pen. It was a very special moment.
Mass started at 9:00 and the church was standing room only with many looking in the ventilation holes in the concrete walls. Sister Jackie translated for our group.
The procession included the first communion people, both priests and six young girls doing a native dance (they would surround the altar and do their motions whenever there was singing during the Mass). Father Bob did the homily with Sister Jackie's help. He had each one of us give a reflection on our experience in Pendus and then go sit among the crowd for the rest of the service. Father Bob's homily included his picking up a young child for emphasis of his point about "signs from God". Near the end of the Mass our group sang "Holy God We Praise Thy Name" We sang the first verse, then crowd sang one verse in Kreyol and we sang the last verse.
In all the Mass lasted just under three hours (I told Father Bob that the priests in America weren't brave enough to hang a clock on the wall behind the altar so all could see it during the service like Sha Sha had). Afterward, Brian took Polaroid pictures of each first communion candidate with Sha Sha, which was given to them along with a rosary. In all we took 500 rosaries to pass out - 200 made by the nuns at the Precious Blood Monastery in Lafayette and 300 made by CC students in Candy Reed's class. Everyone loved getting one and would wear it around their neck or hang it from their shirts pockets.
More Kiro singing and marching followed outside after church as well as many wanting their picture taken by us. The Feast celebration in the village also picked back up again all day long.
Lunch was at 12:45 and Cynthia, a Canadian student studying the water situation in Haiti, joined us. Our meal was chicken, fried bananas, rice and beans, salad, fried potatoes, carrots, popcorn, green beans, macaroni salad, leftover wedding cake, coke, wine and Champaign (from Sha Sha).
After lunch, Sha Sha took us to see Jean Claude's house. It was located up a short path behind the church school. There were 8 people (including his mother and nephew) living in a one-room building was not watertight. Inside there was only one twin bed and several mats for the sleeping on the dirt floor. The ceiling was only a few boards across the rafters. Jean Claude said they had to lay on those boards if it rained as water would get in through the roof and sides and the floor would get too muddy. At $12 Haitian per sheet of tin roof, it was estimated that about $500 US would be needed to improve the home without even enlarging it.
Willie, a "college" student (equivalent to our high school) was home for the feast weekend. He could speak English pretty well. He walked me the short distance from the church to show me his house and meet his mother.
While the celebrations continued, Adel had a chance to examine the foot of a man (who founded the school at Masak) that suffered from elephantiasis. We attempted to get measurements so that a shoe of some sort could be made for him. He was 49 years old and had had this condition for 26 years. (Remember is was a two-hour walk from Masak for him to get here.)
At 5 pm we had a meeting in one of the classroom with all of the teachers and catechists who were there from Pendus and surrounding villages (Masak, Savane Carre, and Mayombe). All of us introduced ourselves and they had several speak to us welcoming us. They even sang a welcome song. Each of us then gave a short witness of what out trip had meant to us (with Sister Jackie's help of course!) Then Sha Sha officially decorated St. Joseph's sacristan of the past 40 years (it is his son that wants to become a priest - he would start seminary in one year.) We also delivered the letters from St. Mary's third grade class as well as the $277.05 that they raised. We then passed out hats to everyone in the room (that is always a very well-received gift.)
A trio of young girls sang to us (translated it was "You are at the center of our hearts and life, it is you Jesus the center of all things.")
Then they surprised us all by giving our guys a home-sewn Haitian shirt (blue with pockets, fringe and hand-stitched designs on it.) and a hand-stitched tablecloth for the ladies.
When this was over, they all stayed for a dinner for themselves and we left. Margo, Steve and I tried to teach the many children the twist (without any music except the songs the three of us could remember and sing . . . believe me it wasn't pretty but the kids loved it.)
Dinner began at 7:40. It consisted of bananas, porridge, bread peanut butter and fig jelly, as well as some Heineken beer that I think Craig and Molly (appropriately nicknamed "Radar") came up with. Immediately afterwards, we met with Sha Sha and Sister Jackie in the dining hall and critiqued our trip (what did we like, what would we do different etc.) and they outlined some of what they considered their more pressing needs. They were:
1. The dispensary needs expanded (there is only one nurse - Madam Macelle - for nearly 25,000 people and no permanent doctor.) If upgraded, maybe it could attract a doctor to come on a regular basis. To reconstruct and add on, he estimated about $15,000 US. Also the nurse doesn't get a salary and should earn about $1,500 US.
2. Teacher's salaries are low at about $60 US per month and more teachers are needed.
3. Masak needs a school (as outlined earlier). He said they have about $3,000 but need $15,000 US to build a five-room school up in that mountain (remember 210 students attend.)
4. Emergency housing for local resident like de Onvil and Jean Claude (and the family whose house the hurricane destroyed.)

We left it that Sha Sha and Sister Jackie would put together a more complete plan of their needs and get it to us within the next two months. We all agreed it is a good investment to invest in education and health.
At 11 pm Craig and Molly (who is from Indiana and rarely gets to play euchre in Haiti) took on Steve and I for the West Indies Euchre Championship! They won. We followed that up with me teaching them "O-Hell" (I won 108 to 104 for Craig and 101 for Molly). We didn't finish playing until after 12:30 and then we still stood around and talked past 1 am.

Monday, March 27, 2000

We were up at 4:45 and in church for an English Mass at 4:50. Father Bob celebrated and Father Ronel and about a dozen others were there to celebrate with us. We left at 6 am. The early departure made the good-byes easier as there weren't as many children there (although Fagant and Show Off were!)
Craig and I rode in the back of our pickup on the first two legs of the trip. Our journey back on the Highway to Heaven got us to Grepin (pronounced Graypay) by 7:55 am for breakfast at the Jean Marie Vincent Formation House (the same place we'd stopped for lunch on the way to Pendus.) Amy and the nuns there had eggs, bananas, square bread, peanut butter, grape jelly and freshly squeezed grapefruit juice ready for us. Again we ate outside under the trees with a nice cool breeze.
We were back on the road again at 8:40 and arrived at Gro-Morne by 8:50. We got to go inside Sha Sha's rectory and his church (Our Lady of the Light Church). It was a big church and even had kneelers (albeit only wood boards!). The front of his church read:

Jesi Nan Mitan-n Fe ke-n Konten
(Jesus is between us) (To make our hearts happy)

An nou antre Lakay Papa
(We enter the house of our Father)

Chanje Ke Nou
(Change our hearts)

On the side wall above the statute of Mary read "Avek Mari Nap Fe Wout Pou Lan" which means "Our Lady of the Light."
We all took a short walk to the Hopital Alma Mater (which is Latin for Hospital of our Mother). This is where Sister Jackie works a lot. We got to see the registration area, pharmacy, ER, dressing room, 2 consultation rooms (there are 2 physicians on staff and one is available if needed 24 hours every day.), pre-natal clinic, new water supply system and generator, the ambulance, surgical suite and the doctors living quarters. There was much construction and painting going on at this facility.
Adel took several notes:

1. there is no EKG
2. this is the closest hospital to Pendus
3. there is no pathologist & insufficient facilities
4. M.D is pulmonologist and the general surgery is done by an internist trained to do surgery
5. the second M.D. is a dental surgeon
6. the in-patient dept. is unsanitary and a mixture of children and adults
7. the x-ray machine has been broken for 4 months

The hospital costs $13 US and covers up to two-week stays.
Finally we're off (now Craig and Father Bob ride in back of the pickup). Father Bob came up his a new Haitian proverb "Beyond the pothole, is a pothole!" How appropriate. We reached Gonaives at 11:30 and stoped at Mother Teresa's Sisters of Charity Home for the Dying. It has beds for 44 people and they will see 550 patients a day. There is no cost to anyone for the stay, care or medicine. We met Etelius Pierre, who was confined to a wheelchair. The nun instantly knew him by name, family history and illness. She said he has no one to visit (his wife has died and his one son never comes). He cried when we came up to talk to him and pat him on the shoulder. He said he was waiting to die.
Adel said he was very impressed with this facility. He said, "there is dignity in the care . . . and the cleanliness you could really see." Of the patients there usually 35 are HIV and the rest cancer, TB or something else.
We left at noon and arrived back at the bishop's house in Gonaives at 12:15 for a 15-minute stop. We arrived at St. Mark at 2:10. We stopped shortly thereafter at a Shell gas station and fueled up (this building was the first place we had air conditioning in Haiti). Sha Sha also bought submarine sandwich for us all to eat, which we took with us to the Brothers of the Sacred Heart retreat center and few miles away. We picnicked there and all of us but Father Bob, Sha Sha and Lulu got in the crystal-clear Caribbean water for about 45 minutes. Craig managed to get stung by a jelly fish, but he got it out of his foot.
The drive back through City Solei and into Port-au-Prince was accompanied by a gorgeous sunset. We arrived back at the Hospice at 6:35. We unloaded and got a quick group picture before Sha Sha, Sister Jackie and Molly left for the evening. Dinner was at 7 pm and consisted of rice and beans, carrots, potatoes, salad and Coke.
Everyone else grabbed a shower while I wrote an article to be emailed back to St. Mary to be included in this week's upcoming bulletin. Steve eloquently wrote out thank yous for the Hospice sisters and for Jackie and Molly (which we all signed.)
I called collect home and talked with Sharon and then I finally got a shower myself. I then talked with Fritzner for quite awhile and thereafter with Adel before retiring for bed about 12:30.

Tuesday, March 28, 2000

Our last morning has us up at 5:30. We finished packing and made sure we had settled up for any charges owing to the Hospice (it was $25 per person per night, which included a breakfast and dinner . . . plus any other items we had purchased.) Father Ronel, Sister Jackie and Molly arrived to join us for a 7 am Mass by Father Bob in the Hospice's chapel. Again each of us gave a reflection on our experience. There were many tears . . . both of joy and sadness that we were about to part.
A quick breakfast at 8 am consisted of corn flakes, milk, grapefruit, orange slices, bread, jelly and peanut butter.
Once everything was loaded up, we began our last drive through early morning Port-au-Prince traffic. Again several of us rode outside on top one last time. We arrived at the airport at 9 am (our flight wasn't to leave until 11:40). One last good-bye was said to Fritzner outside the building (he didn't think it was a good idea for him to go inside.) However, Sha Sha, Sister Jackie and Molly came in with us. There was one long line to get to the ticket counter (with 50-60 ahead of us). While we waited for the line to snake along, we were entertained by Jane and Karen's bargaining ability with the vendors selling sandals, Kreyol-English books and several other items to those of us in line.
It took awhile to get passports checked and tickets verified. Once done, we had to get in another (shorter) line to pay our exit fees ($30 US and $2 Haitian). It was at this point that Sha Sha, Sister Jackie and Molly could go no further. One last round of hugs and "we'll be back" led us to customs. Some of us were randomly waived around, while others (like Adel, Lulu and me) had to go through another x-ray machine. Very little time remained before boarding, but many of us managed to hit the duty-free liquor store and buy some Haitian Rum to bring home.
The flight took off on time. I sat with Father Bob on the first two legs home and we talked about what we had experienced and what should lie ahead.
We took off for Miami on time at 11:50. Steve found a USA Today and told us all the Purdue-Wisconsin score. Lunch was served on board this leg of the flight home. We landed in Miami at 1:37 pm and made our way through customs (a much easier ordeal than in Port-au-Prince.) We had a long enough lay over to grab a quick sandwich or snack before leaving for Charlotte at 4:29. We arrived in Charlotte at 6:10 and learned we had an hour extra lay over (which ultimately neared two extra hours.)
With the extra time we all had a meal together at Chili's. While we waited for our food, Steve set up his camcorder and we watched some of the events from the past week. We must have been a sight to the rest of the restaurant.
We finally left Charlotte at 9:20 on a small DC-9 and didn't land in Indianapolis until 10:50. Sharon came down with Helen Hession (as did Craig's wife) to meet us and give us a ride home. We had lots to share on the ride home.